Restaurant Reviews in Culinary Magazine

Restaurant reviews exemplify Culinary Magazines emphasis that pleasurable dining meant eating out. Most of the 78 articles about restaurants appear as individual essays. Someone under the pseudonym Rokusanjin authored a guide to Tokyo restaurants near Ueno for visitors to the sixth national industrial exposition that occurred in 1907. That essay includes notes about what one might generally expect from all restaurants in the capital, so that readers unaccustomed to dining out would know what they should expect to pay. The author explained that a multi-course kaiseki meal usually cost about two yen with drinks included, but that payments to the servers and female entertainers were also required, adding another 50 sen (half a yen) to the bill. In sum, dining out at a finer establishment should not cost more

Cover of Kuidoraku (Culinary Magazine)

Fig. 2 Cover of Kuidoraku (Culinary Magazine)

than three yen - an amount 8.5 times the cost of a year’s subscription to the magazine. But for readers with more limited resources, the author introduced a range of eateries near Ueno: a Western restaurant best for its coffee; two places specializing in tofu; two soba shops and two chicken restaurants. One of these establishments, he warned, turned ‘damned awful’ when the main chef was not cooking. Others he found only notable for their views of surrounding scenery. 8 The article, which appeared in April 1907, must have been well received, because it was followed by a three-part series on the eateries within the industrial exhibit for the issues of May, June and August of that year. Besides restaurants, reviewers profiled the noted products of confectioners. Mishima Shoso lent his artistic expertise to a two-part essay on

the sweets from famous shops in Tokyo for the first and second issues of the



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