Objectives and methodology of the study

Starting from the above considerations, the aim of the study is to carry out an empirical in-depth analysis on the digital communication of the brands belonging to the 30 most important luxury holdings in the world (Table 11.1). The aim is to compare the conceptual categories of the brand heritage with the communicative codes used by luxury fashion companies to express and transfer the symbolic value of their heritage. The content analysis was conducted on a total of 88 official websites of brands owned by the top 30 luxury corporations based on the annual report published by Deloitte, The Global Power of Luxury Goods Companies, 2017.

Data collection

The identification of the units of analysis was done through the selection of the official documents published by luxury companies on their brand websites. The selected documents were the ones describing the history, legacy, tradition and heritage of those companies. For reasons of clarity and in order to ensure linguistic consistency of the results, texts have been selected and downloaded exclusively in English. Based on a careful assessment of brand heritage literature (Urde et al., 2007; Rindell, 2010; Wiedmann et al., 2013), web sections were identified on the basis of the following keywords: “heritage”, “brand heritage”, “history”, “tradition”, “identity” and “inspiration”.

Analysis of the corpus

Selected documents have been processed using the software Nvivo 12. The textual analysis consisted of three main steps (Bolasco, 2005). The first step of the analysis consisted in the pre-treatment of the data and was carried out through the normalization of the texts. In order to obtain a standardization of the orthographic variations, the software uniformed the textual forms thanks to the so-called parsing procedure. During this process, conjunctions and adverbs were added to the stop word list, and they were excluded from the analysis. The result of this phase is a list of all words present in the text. The list includes approximately 5,061 word-types

Table 11.1 Top 30 luxury goods companies

F Y 2015 luxury goods sales ranking

Company name

Selection of luxury brands

Country of origin

1

LVMH Moët

Hennessy-Louis

Vuitton SE

Louis Vuitton, Fendi, Bulgari, Loro Piana, Emilio Pucci, Acqua di Parma, Donna Karan, Loewe, Marc Jacobs, TAG Heuer, Benefit Cosmetics

France

2

Compagnie Financière Richemont SA

Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Montblanc, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, IWC, Piaget, Chloé, Officine Panerai

Switzerland

3

The Estée Lauder Companies Inc.

Estée Lauder, M.A.C., Aramis, Clinique, Aveda, Jo Malone, Licensed fragrance brands

US

4

Luxottica Group SpA

Ray-Ban, Oakley, Vogue Eyewear, Persol, Oliver Peoples

Italy

5

Kering SA

Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Brioni, Sergio Rossi, Pomellato, Girard-Perregaux, Ulysse Nardin

France

6

The Swatch Group Ltd.

Omega, Longines, Breguet, Harry Winston, Rado, Blancpain; Licensed watch brands

Switzerland

7

L’Oréal Luxe

Lancôme, Biotherm, Helena Rubinstein, Urban Decay, Kiehl’s; Licensed brands

France

8

Ralph Lauren Corporation

Ralph Lauren, Polo Ralph Lauren, Purple Label, Double RL, Club Monaco

US

9

Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group Limited

Chow Tai Fook, Hearts on Fire

Hong Kong

10

PVH Corp.

Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger

US

11

Rolex SA

Rolex, Tudor

Switzerland

12

Hermès International SCA

Hermès, John Lobb

France

13

Lao Feng Xiao Co.,

Lao Feng Xiang

China

14

Michael Kors Holdings Limited

Michael Kors, MICHAEL Michael Kors

UK

15

Coach, Inc.

Coach, Stuart Weitzman

US

16

Tiffany & Co.

Tiffany & Co., Tiffany

US

17

Prada Group

Prada, Miu Miu, Church's, Car Shoe

Italy

(Continued)

FY 201S luxury goods sales ranking

Company name

Selection of luxury brands

Country of origin

18

Burberry Group pic

Burberry

UK

19

Hugo Boss AG

BOSS, HUGO, BOSS Green, BOSS Orange

Germany

20

Fossil Group, Inc.

Fossil, Michele, Relic, Skagen, Zodiac, Mis t Licensed brands

US

21

Giorgio Armani SpA

Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani, Armani, AIX Armani Exchange

Italy

22

Swarovski Crystal Business

Swarovski

Austria

23

Coty Inc.

Philosophy, JOOP!, Lancaster, Calvin Klein fragrance; Licensed fragrance brands: Marc Jacobs, Chloé, DAVIDOFF

US

24

Pandora A/S

Pandora

Denmark

25

Chow Sang Sang

Holdings

International Limited

Chow Sang Sang

Hong Kong

26

Christian Dior Couture SA

Christian Dior

France

27

Puig S.L.

Carolina Herrera, Nina Ricci, Paco Rabanne, Jean Paul Gaultier, Penhaligon’s

Spain

28

Luk Fook Holdings (International) Limited

Luk Fook

Hong Kong

29

OTB SpA

Diesel, Maison Margiela, Viktor&Rolf, Marni

Italy

30

Gitanjali Gems Ltd.

Gili, Nakshatra, Sangini, Asmi, Passion Store

India

Source.- Deloitte (2017).

Digital storytelling 193 with 28,499-word token. Words useful to interpret the content were selected from the list. The data were decomposed by using a process of open coding. The most recurrent words included: “brand” (275 times), “design” (236 times), “world” (222 times), “watch” (196 times), “first” (192 times), “new” (188 times), “products” (176 times), “innovative” (154 times) and “years” (132 times). The result of the text analysis is a word cloud offering a simple and effective graphic representation of the most frequent words associated with heritage communication (Figure 11.2).

Meaningful insights emerged from the comparison of the top five theme words across the corporations under investigation (Table 11.2). For example, with respect to the five most recurrent words of only the top ten holdings in the ranking, some similarities may be found. For example, with respect to the hard luxury product category, the Swatch Group and Kering SA have a similar discursive communication focused on theme words such as “brand”, “world” and “innovation”. The words “design” and “world” are present in four out of ten holdings. These two words highlight the importance of the global position for luxury brands that can be supported by a strong tension to design and creativity. Moreover, three corporations show the presence of both “design” and “world” in the top five words. The word “first” appears two times (2nd rank for both Compagnie Financière

Word cloud of the most recurring words

Figure 11.2 Word cloud of the most recurring words.

Source: Author’s elaboration.

Table 11.2 Top 5 most frequent words list considering the top 10 luxury fashion holdings

Companies

1

2

3

4

5

LVMH

Moët Hennessy-

Louis Vuitton SE

Design

House

New

World

Brand

Compagnie

Financière

Richemont SA

Watch

First

Watch

making

Movement

Manufacture

The Estée Lauder

Companies Inc.

Make-Up

World

Fragrance

Create

Fashion

Luxottica Group SpA

Brand

Design

Eye wear

World

Style

Kering SA

Brand

Tailor

House

World

Innovation

The Swatch Group Ltd.

Watch

Watch

making

Brand

Innovation

World

L’Oréal Luxe

Beauty

First

Brand

Women

Skin

Ralph Lauren Corporation

Products

Brand

Design

Marketing

Accessories

Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group Limited

Diamond

Perfect

Cut

World

Group

PVH Corp.

Brand

Design

Global

Collection

Women

Source: Author’s elaboration.

Richemont and L’Oréal luxe). In these cases, it could be hypothesised that brands highlight their roles of innovators, confirming the dynamic nature of the heritage that can project the identity of the company into the future.

 
Source